.RHS Garden magazine articles
Adding late-summer and autumn colour
Late in summer, many flowering perennials begin to run out of steam, so add a few plants that naturally flower later in the year for an 'Indian summer' of colour and interest. From the following list you can extend your garden's season, often up to the first frosts or beyond.
Group 'Brunette', A. simplex 'Pink Spike'
* Agastache 'Blackadder', 'Purple Haze'
* Anemone hupehensis 'Hadspen Abundance', A. x hybrids 'Honorine Jobert'
* Aster thomsonii
+ Astrantia 'Roma', 'Warren Hills'
* Chrysanthemum 'Clara Curtis', 'Duchess of Edinburgh', 'Emperor of China'
* Dahlia Arabian Night, 'Bishop of Auckland', 'Englhardt's Matador'
* Dianthus carthusianorum, D. cruentus
* Echinops ritro Helenium 'Rubinzwerg
•i- Eryngium planum, E. x tripartitum
Cultivars of Solenostemon scutellarioides (coleus) are prone to relatively few diseases, but there are a few to keep an eye out for.
Foot and stem rots
These can be caused by several soil-bome pathogens, including Fusarium, Pythium, Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia. All infect the delicate tissues of cuttings and fragile young roots, killing them quickly. Cuttings are particularly susceptible if humidity is high, growing media is wet and air circulation poor. No fungicides are available to home gardeners to control foot and stem rots. Avoid too humid an environment by correctly spacing cuttings to avoid crowding, and keep plants well ventilated.
* Eucomis bicolor
* Eupatorium maculatum Atropurpureum Group
* Geranium 'Azure Rush', Rozanne CGerwat') •tr Gladiolus murielae, G. 'Ruby'
Helenium 'Butterpat', 'Moreheim Beauty', 'Rubinzwerg'
Helianthus 'Lemon Queen', 'Miss Mellish' Hesperantha coccinea 'Major' 4- Lobelia x speciosa 'Dark Crusader' and 'Hadspen Purple', L. tupa
* Nepeta x faassenii 'Blue Wonder', N. racemosa 'Walker's Low'
* Penstemon Andenken an Friedrich Hahn'
Common rust diseases
Box rust
Caused by a fungus (.Puccinia buxi), box rust is specific to Buxus and causes dark brown raised pustules on the upper and
lower leaf surfaces. Although looking dramatic and unsightly, box rust does not cause any long-term damage (it is much less of a problem than box blight, for example). Control by removing and destroying infected leaves, or apply a fungicide labelled for use on ornamental plants against rust diseases (see below).
Heuchera rust
Raised orange/brown spots on the under¬sides of leaves, later seen as brown marks on upper surfaces, indicate Puccinia heucherae (heuchera rust). It can seriously weaken plants: fungicides labelled to control rusts on ornamentals can be used. Disposal of infected leaves helps, but badly affected plants are best removed. Improve airflow around plants to reduce humidity. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as soft growth is easier to infect.
Leek rust
Onions, garlic, chives and other Allium species are all affected by leek rust (.Puccinia allii, syn. Puccinia porri). Different strains of the fungus vary in their ability to infect different alliums. Orange pustules on the leaves later release airborne spores. No fungicides are available to home gardeners to control it. High humidity and soils high in nitrogen but low in potassium invite infections.
Rose rust
Caused by Phragmidium tuberculatum, this is common but less serious than rose black-spot. Spring stem infections result in bright orange pustules that distort young growth. Leaf surfaces show yellow spots above that turn dark; underneath are bright orange pustules that turn black in late summer.
Destroy diseased material by spring pruning or clearing autumn leaf fall. Use fungicides that control rust on ornamentals.
Fungicides to use on ornamental plants
Fungicides with active ingredients myclobutanil (Bayer Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter and other formulations), tebuconazole (Bayer Garden Multirose Concentrate 2 and Bayer Fungus Fighter), trifloxystrobin (Bayer Fungus Fighter Plus) and triticonazole (Roseclear Ultra, Scotts Fungus Clear Ultra) are approved for rust control on ornamental garden plants. However, myclobutanil-based Bayer Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter concentrate and Bayer Garden Fungus Fighter Disease Control are being withdrawn. These cannot be sold after 30 Nov 2015, and any remaining stocks must be used or disposed of before 30 Nov 2016.
Dividing hellebores
Hellebores, valued for their blooms in late winter and early spring, are not difficult to divide.Helleborus niger (Christmas rose) and H. torquatus are best divided in spring, just before they come into growth. Helleborus x hybridus
(Lenten rose) and hybrids of H. niger (such as H. X nigercors and H. x ericsmithii) are better divided in late summer or early autumn - they produce a flush of new roots in autumn, which enables them to establish before winter. Division is the only option to produce identical plants of these hybrids, as they do not come 'true' from seed. The method is the same whatever the hellebore. When lifting clumps, retain as much of the fibrous rootball as possible to enable divisions to establish more quickly. As a guide, a clump about 30cm (12in) across can be divided into four. Cut with a sharp, ideally serrated knife (the rhizomes can be quite woody), leaving at least one growth point and a good set of roots per division. Replant immediately Plants may not flower well for a year or two. • Helleborus/oetidus, H. argutiolius and H. liuidus cannot be divided: raise these from seed.
Gardening and good health
Author: William Bird, GP and CEO of Intelligent Health, Reading
Gardening really does help us stay healthy and live longer - it keeps us active, connects us to nature and gives
a sense of place and purpose. Keeping active is the most important single thing we can do to keep healthy. It has been shown to prevent diabetes, heart disease, breast and bowel cancer, arthritis, dementia and stroke. A few tips for activity in the garden:
• Try not to start strenuous exercise first thing in the morning, or as your
first activity. Start gently, building up to heavier work once warmed up. • Don't crouch for long periods - get up every 10-15 minutes and walk around.
• Guard against infections from soil: deep cuts need to be cleaned quickly.
Five ways to wellbeing There is strong evidence that if you build these five areas into your life (and gardening is a good way of doing all five), you are more resilient to disease - and even age more slowly.
• Be active: reduce use of powered implements, such as hedgetrimmers,
string trimmers or even mowers, substituting with 'elbow grease'.
• Notice things: take time to enjoy the sights and sounds of the garden. Called
'attention restoration', this allows the brain's cortex to replenish its function.
• Learn: for example, the names of all the plants, butterflies and birds
in your garden.
• Connect to people: if you live alone, go out and meet other gardeners. Loneliness is as big a risk factor for
heart disease as smoking.
• Give: cuttings or plants to local fetes
or friends, or give your time by working in a neighbour's garden.
Get the best from raised beds
Wood construction is usually cheapest but has a relatively short life span. Heavy, preserved timbers last longer but are
more costly, while masonry is most expensive but lasts well.
* When deciding on dimensions, choose a width of less than 1.5m (5ft) to allow easy access from the sides. Depth is less important, but beds made on hard standing should ideally be a minimum of 60cm (2ft) deep.
* Modern wood preservatives do not contain potentially harmful metals so are safe to use but, if in doubt, line the
inside of wooden beds with polythene or old compost bags.
" For raised beds sitting on hard standing, drill drainage holes in the base and fill the bottom with 8cm (3in) of rubble.
* A wide range of crops are suitable for raised beds. To begin try beetroot, blueberries (if acid soil is used), broad beans, carrots, dwarf French beans, lettuce, radishes, strawberries and tomatoes. Many herbs also thrive in the sharp drainage
Adding late-summer and autumn colour
Late in summer, many flowering perennials begin to run out of steam, so add a few plants that naturally flower later in the year for an 'Indian summer' of colour and interest. From the following list you can extend your garden's season, often up to the first frosts or beyond.
Group 'Brunette', A. simplex 'Pink Spike'
* Agastache 'Blackadder', 'Purple Haze'
* Anemone hupehensis 'Hadspen Abundance', A. x hybrids 'Honorine Jobert'
* Aster thomsonii
+ Astrantia 'Roma', 'Warren Hills'
* Chrysanthemum 'Clara Curtis', 'Duchess of Edinburgh', 'Emperor of China'
* Dahlia Arabian Night, 'Bishop of Auckland', 'Englhardt's Matador'
* Dianthus carthusianorum, D. cruentus
* Echinops ritro Helenium 'Rubinzwerg
•i- Eryngium planum, E. x tripartitum
Cultivars of Solenostemon scutellarioides (coleus) are prone to relatively few diseases, but there are a few to keep an eye out for.
Foot and stem rots
These can be caused by several soil-bome pathogens, including Fusarium, Pythium, Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia. All infect the delicate tissues of cuttings and fragile young roots, killing them quickly. Cuttings are particularly susceptible if humidity is high, growing media is wet and air circulation poor. No fungicides are available to home gardeners to control foot and stem rots. Avoid too humid an environment by correctly spacing cuttings to avoid crowding, and keep plants well ventilated.
* Eucomis bicolor
* Eupatorium maculatum Atropurpureum Group
* Geranium 'Azure Rush', Rozanne CGerwat') •tr Gladiolus murielae, G. 'Ruby'
Helenium 'Butterpat', 'Moreheim Beauty', 'Rubinzwerg'
Helianthus 'Lemon Queen', 'Miss Mellish' Hesperantha coccinea 'Major' 4- Lobelia x speciosa 'Dark Crusader' and 'Hadspen Purple', L. tupa
* Nepeta x faassenii 'Blue Wonder', N. racemosa 'Walker's Low'
* Penstemon Andenken an Friedrich Hahn'
Common rust diseases
Box rust
Caused by a fungus (.Puccinia buxi), box rust is specific to Buxus and causes dark brown raised pustules on the upper and
lower leaf surfaces. Although looking dramatic and unsightly, box rust does not cause any long-term damage (it is much less of a problem than box blight, for example). Control by removing and destroying infected leaves, or apply a fungicide labelled for use on ornamental plants against rust diseases (see below).
Heuchera rust
Raised orange/brown spots on the under¬sides of leaves, later seen as brown marks on upper surfaces, indicate Puccinia heucherae (heuchera rust). It can seriously weaken plants: fungicides labelled to control rusts on ornamentals can be used. Disposal of infected leaves helps, but badly affected plants are best removed. Improve airflow around plants to reduce humidity. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers as soft growth is easier to infect.
Leek rust
Onions, garlic, chives and other Allium species are all affected by leek rust (.Puccinia allii, syn. Puccinia porri). Different strains of the fungus vary in their ability to infect different alliums. Orange pustules on the leaves later release airborne spores. No fungicides are available to home gardeners to control it. High humidity and soils high in nitrogen but low in potassium invite infections.
Rose rust
Caused by Phragmidium tuberculatum, this is common but less serious than rose black-spot. Spring stem infections result in bright orange pustules that distort young growth. Leaf surfaces show yellow spots above that turn dark; underneath are bright orange pustules that turn black in late summer.
Destroy diseased material by spring pruning or clearing autumn leaf fall. Use fungicides that control rust on ornamentals.
Fungicides to use on ornamental plants
Fungicides with active ingredients myclobutanil (Bayer Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter and other formulations), tebuconazole (Bayer Garden Multirose Concentrate 2 and Bayer Fungus Fighter), trifloxystrobin (Bayer Fungus Fighter Plus) and triticonazole (Roseclear Ultra, Scotts Fungus Clear Ultra) are approved for rust control on ornamental garden plants. However, myclobutanil-based Bayer Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter concentrate and Bayer Garden Fungus Fighter Disease Control are being withdrawn. These cannot be sold after 30 Nov 2015, and any remaining stocks must be used or disposed of before 30 Nov 2016.
Dividing hellebores
Hellebores, valued for their blooms in late winter and early spring, are not difficult to divide.Helleborus niger (Christmas rose) and H. torquatus are best divided in spring, just before they come into growth. Helleborus x hybridus
(Lenten rose) and hybrids of H. niger (such as H. X nigercors and H. x ericsmithii) are better divided in late summer or early autumn - they produce a flush of new roots in autumn, which enables them to establish before winter. Division is the only option to produce identical plants of these hybrids, as they do not come 'true' from seed. The method is the same whatever the hellebore. When lifting clumps, retain as much of the fibrous rootball as possible to enable divisions to establish more quickly. As a guide, a clump about 30cm (12in) across can be divided into four. Cut with a sharp, ideally serrated knife (the rhizomes can be quite woody), leaving at least one growth point and a good set of roots per division. Replant immediately Plants may not flower well for a year or two. • Helleborus/oetidus, H. argutiolius and H. liuidus cannot be divided: raise these from seed.
Gardening and good health
Author: William Bird, GP and CEO of Intelligent Health, Reading
Gardening really does help us stay healthy and live longer - it keeps us active, connects us to nature and gives
a sense of place and purpose. Keeping active is the most important single thing we can do to keep healthy. It has been shown to prevent diabetes, heart disease, breast and bowel cancer, arthritis, dementia and stroke. A few tips for activity in the garden:
• Try not to start strenuous exercise first thing in the morning, or as your
first activity. Start gently, building up to heavier work once warmed up. • Don't crouch for long periods - get up every 10-15 minutes and walk around.
• Guard against infections from soil: deep cuts need to be cleaned quickly.
Five ways to wellbeing There is strong evidence that if you build these five areas into your life (and gardening is a good way of doing all five), you are more resilient to disease - and even age more slowly.
• Be active: reduce use of powered implements, such as hedgetrimmers,
string trimmers or even mowers, substituting with 'elbow grease'.
• Notice things: take time to enjoy the sights and sounds of the garden. Called
'attention restoration', this allows the brain's cortex to replenish its function.
• Learn: for example, the names of all the plants, butterflies and birds
in your garden.
• Connect to people: if you live alone, go out and meet other gardeners. Loneliness is as big a risk factor for
heart disease as smoking.
• Give: cuttings or plants to local fetes
or friends, or give your time by working in a neighbour's garden.
Get the best from raised beds
Wood construction is usually cheapest but has a relatively short life span. Heavy, preserved timbers last longer but are
more costly, while masonry is most expensive but lasts well.
* When deciding on dimensions, choose a width of less than 1.5m (5ft) to allow easy access from the sides. Depth is less important, but beds made on hard standing should ideally be a minimum of 60cm (2ft) deep.
* Modern wood preservatives do not contain potentially harmful metals so are safe to use but, if in doubt, line the
inside of wooden beds with polythene or old compost bags.
" For raised beds sitting on hard standing, drill drainage holes in the base and fill the bottom with 8cm (3in) of rubble.
* A wide range of crops are suitable for raised beds. To begin try beetroot, blueberries (if acid soil is used), broad beans, carrots, dwarf French beans, lettuce, radishes, strawberries and tomatoes. Many herbs also thrive in the sharp drainage